Anne Klein 1414 Silk Blouse

Test, test, test....I test everything. I test the thread color, the thread weight, the needle size, stitch length, several possible seam finishes and several interfacings to find the best weight and pliability of all ingredients. Yes, even the thread weight can alter the texture and appearance. And finally, I test all these variables on a few different machines.  Some fabrics will demand the support of a dual feed system.
I normally make a test muslin on fitted garments.  I know a lot of people do not like taking time to do this step. Nine times out of ten I make fitting adjustments. Typically, I remove 1/4 inch across the upper chest and then add 1/4 inch across the upper back.  This borrowing allows me to create a minimal forward shift on the upper shoulder frame. This is simply a natural progression of skeletal change over time! This minor change is noticeable on higher necklines that may rub the front of your neck. I also shorten most tops by one inch because I'm short ! Every once in a while I end up with a muslin that simply is not flattering and I have no intention of wasting a coveted fabric from my collection to make that design.  Muslins are important!!
When I make a muslin I try to find something in my stash collection that I consider an orphan.  I came across this brick colored polyester fabric that I purchased in l983 back when there was a fabric store in just about every shopping center.  I was more willing to wear polyester back then simply because they were readily available and fairly inexpensive.  I don't particularly like sewing and pressing polyester because it doesn't take a nice crisp press like a natural fiber. This is Vogue Anne Klein 1414.  The directions neglected to provide information about the second flange.   The picture on the envelope and directions show two.  I wrote to the pattern company and they claimed there is only one on the right.  Other than this little problem with their directions the fit was just great.  The set-in sleeves that fit precisely at the shoulder also permit a better range of motion when lifting your arms up.  I find patterns with dropped (droopy) shoulders to be less flattering with age.  I  intentionally made the silk version one size larger so the armscye area would have less contact with the fabric. Perspiration and deodorants cause silk fabrics to deteriorate rapidly so I find it important to use designs that are somewhat looser in the armpit.

 Since my brick polyester fabric worked out reasonably well I decided to take the plunge and use this gorgeous silk print.  I had a lot of fun cutting out the components and placing the various colors so each item jumped with a contrast.  I ended up using about 4 different colors of thread.