French Seams with a Side Vent

Yes, you can actually have a vent and a French seam at the same time!  I chose this mid weight cotton as my testing sample. This is a wonderful seam finish for light weight linen, cotton and sheer fabrics. Avoid loosely woven fabrics. An open weave will result in a hole in the area of transition.


This second sample at the right is sewn with matching thread. Take note how the END of the FRENCH seam tapers into a CURVE !



 I also used a pencil on the fabric for visibility.  You would substitute a water soluble marker or thread trace your lines. The thread trace is visible from both sides and will not damage any fabric. 
(Sometimes pencil will wash out.  Test first)


I used dark thread for better visibility.




A brief summary.... French seams are sewn with the WRONG sides of  the fabric together.  You stitch on the RIGHT side at 3/8". Trim the seams in half.  That means you will be left with a seam allowance between 1/8 and 1/4.   (That's 3/16" for those of us that still think in terms of inches.)  If you trim the seam allowance down to 1/8 inch it will be too hard to press the seam allowance open with the iron.  I don't care to burn my fingers!




Draw a line on the RIGHT side of your fabric where the French seam stops and the vent begins.  The vertical line I added helps you to stitch toward the intersection.   Yes, the line of stitching is taking a turn toward that point of intersection!  As you approach this intersection switch your stitch length to 1.0 stitch length rather than back stitching.  Back stitching tends to add too much thread.  Stitching in reverse often causes a pucker on sheer fabrics.
You can also use the tie-off knot feature on newer machines.  Do NOT use more than 3 knots or you will have a hard knot. I'm not really a fan of the tie off feature because it is more difficult to remove without damaging the fabric.













With super pointy tiny scissors (Gingher) clip a 45 degree angle to the intersection.

Always press the first seam open before you press the fold or your seam will not be exactly on the fold.  A Clover iron with a small iron shoe is helpful.  A Dritz or June Tailor wood tailoring board is very handy for this task.








Do NOT trim off the dog ears at the top of the vent.  This tiny corner will be folded under as you fold the vent seam allowances under.


The final line of stitching on the French seam is sewn 1/4 inch.  If you have a presser foot with the metal flange on the right hand side of the foot you will achieve straighter stitching lines. (foot #57 for Bernina)

As you approach the intersection where the French seam ends and the vent begins switch to a smaller stitch.

Do NOT clip off thread tails.  Leave about 3 inches. Use a needle to thread the tail and hide the tail into the seam.
This will prevent the seam from opening.
And it looks nicer!

Do NOT be tempted to use a Fray block product. They frequently are rough, crusty and visible on most fabrics.

 For the area where you have the vent opening simply fold and press the seam allowances under. Edge stitch the folded edge in place. Once again, a foot with a flange (center flange this time) will offer a straighter stitch.



This is a really clean way to finish off the side seams for those light weight summer tops !


Width of Side Vents:  You are NOT limited to using the 5/8 inch seam for the side vents.  The vents can be cut to any width of your choice.  A wider vent generally hangs straighter without twisting.

World War II Fashion

Now that my Mom is 90 I am spending a lot of time listening to her childhood memories both good and bad.  I have a whole new appreciation for clothing because of  her stories which I will cherish forever.  These stories have allowed me to understand how fashion was influenced by the economy and circumstances of the time.  She told me her Mother made her a suit from a man's suit because they didn't have money or the resources to make her a garment from scratch.  The quilts my Grandmother made often incorporated swatches of cotton flour sacks. Clothes were passed down and altered for each child. These people were resourceful!

There were several books written at the time teaching people how to Make Do and Mend.

In March of l942 the War Production Board (WPB) issued Regulation L-85, specifying
restrictions for every item of clothing produced. Our country needed all the natural fibers for parachutes and uniforms. Nylon, silk and leather were in very short supply.  Childrens clothing, sheets and undergarments were greatly affected.  This regulation limited the use of natural fibers and limited skirts to a seventy-two inch circumference. It banned knife pleats, ruffles and patch pockets part of a "no fabric over fabric rule".  The ration coupons allowed men and women to purchase only two pair of shoes.  The soles were made of wood composition.  Metal zippers were replaced by plastic coils .  Rayon was used extensively and was known as artificial silk.  The substitutions weren't wonderful but everyone 'made do'. Manufacturers shortened the hemlines to conserve fabric.   Designer  garments had to conform to regulations as well.
Pattern sales increased noticeably.  Simplicity offered a line of patterns featuring garments which required 3 yards or less.

I came across this photo of my Mom wearing a
beautiful fur trimmed winter coat.
As a young child I didn't understand how they had the money for fur when she always talked about how poor they were.  As it turns out, the fur industry sky rocketed during the war because natural fibers were limited and fur wasn't a valuable resource for parachutes or uniforms.
Now it makes sense!  You just can't pass judgement until you know the whole story.












So, how did I get started on this trip down memory
lane ?   I came across this gorgeous piece of wool and cashmere hounds tooth fabric from Banksville Fabrics. The colors were reminiscent of my Father's Army blanket. Subdued colors like blue-grey, bottle green and donkey brown were prominent.

Next thing I knew I decided to shorten this Vogue Adri  # 1157  jumper to a length more proportional to my height.  Long garments really aren't that terribly flattering on people who are five feet and two inches tall.

If this were 1942 I clearly  wouldn't be able to have a garment this long!

This particular wool and cashmere fabric is a current, recent purchase.  It is not part of my coveted stash.  History repeats itself.

This pattern does not include a lining but I chose to add one.  I am using china silk with French seam allowances.









Oh, by the way,  did you happen to notice the new release of Simplicity patterns from the early 60's ?
Shoulder darts and elbow darts are making a come back.  Does this mean we can look forward to better fitting garments ?




And here's a great book for those individuals who truly enjoy reading about pattern history.













Most Vogue Adri patterns are produced without an option for lining.  Linings add warmth, allow the garment to hang more smoothly plus add a nicer finished touch.  I added china silk as my lining.  I normally like to use a 'pick stitch' rather than a felling stitch simply because it acts like an understitch which keeps the edge from rolling.

Bias bindings are used in the UN lined version.  I continued to use them over my lining so the lining wouldn't show at the armholes.  I always hand baste bindings to keep ripples from forming as I machine stitch the edges into position.











 I also used the 'Pick Stitch' around my Bound Buttonhole which provides a cleaner finish.




 In the picture below you can see I ended up using the metal D-Rings instead of the Mother of Pearl belt buckle.  The strap feeds through the bound buttonhole.

The belt carriers ended up being sewn into the seam allowance instead of folding the edge and top-stitching like the carriers on pants.  I felt they were somewhat bulky and somewhat unfinished

Here's the finished garment on my 'Rosie'.

My version is knee length rather than ankle length.

There are no large square patch pockets on the sides of the hips.  Saddle bags simply aren't flattering at the hip level for many women.  Besides, the belts and fasteners provided just enough of a design element.