Learning From the Past

I have a collection of patterns from the l940' and 1950's.  The details on the patterns of the l940's and 1950's are quite useful especially to new sewers.  These patterns were also printed in ONE size which is easier for a beginner to process.  As an educator I hear all the frustrations from beginner sewers. Many students can not interpret the visual graphics on the guide sheets due to a lack of labeling. Back in the 50's the guide sheets included arrows which helped a great deal.
Here is a pattern printed from 1953.  Note- the front facing and front bodice have a DOUBLE notch while the Back bodice and Back facing have a SINGLE notch.  Most patterns printed in the past few decades use the Double Notch to indicate the back of a sleeve.   All the pattern pieces are identified, and notches are numbered !  Now that's what I call user-friendly !  There are a few directions printed in the seam allowance area too !  Multi-sized patterns can be slightly confusing for beginner sewers. If history truly repeats itself I hope the pattern companies are listening!

This sleeve pattern from 1968 still uses numbers to help less experienced sewers with critical matching point. Also, they printed on the pattern information about the dot for matching the shoulder seam.  I sure wish pattern makers would go back to this system.  This is so user-friendly ! 

 (please do not cut out the notches- this may happen when you purchase vintage patterns from estate sales, etc.)

(click on the photo to enlarge for easier viewing)

Anne Klein 1414 Silk Blouse

Test, test, test....I test everything. I test the thread color, the thread weight, the needle size, stitch length, several possible seam finishes and several interfacings to find the best weight and pliability of all ingredients. Yes, even the thread weight can alter the texture and appearance. And finally, I test all these variables on a few different machines.  Some fabrics will demand the support of a dual feed system.
I normally make a test muslin on fitted garments.  I know a lot of people do not like taking time to do this step. Nine times out of ten I make fitting adjustments. Typically, I remove 1/4 inch across the upper chest and then add 1/4 inch across the upper back.  This borrowing allows me to create a minimal forward shift on the upper shoulder frame. This is simply a natural progression of skeletal change over time! This minor change is noticeable on higher necklines that may rub the front of your neck. I also shorten most tops by one inch because I'm short ! Every once in a while I end up with a muslin that simply is not flattering and I have no intention of wasting a coveted fabric from my collection to make that design.  Muslins are important!!
When I make a muslin I try to find something in my stash collection that I consider an orphan.  I came across this brick colored polyester fabric that I purchased in l983 back when there was a fabric store in just about every shopping center.  I was more willing to wear polyester back then simply because they were readily available and fairly inexpensive.  I don't particularly like sewing and pressing polyester because it doesn't take a nice crisp press like a natural fiber. This is Vogue Anne Klein 1414.  The directions neglected to provide information about the second flange.   The picture on the envelope and directions show two.  I wrote to the pattern company and they claimed there is only one on the right.  Other than this little problem with their directions the fit was just great.  The set-in sleeves that fit precisely at the shoulder also permit a better range of motion when lifting your arms up.  I find patterns with dropped (droopy) shoulders to be less flattering with age.  I  intentionally made the silk version one size larger so the armscye area would have less contact with the fabric. Perspiration and deodorants cause silk fabrics to deteriorate rapidly so I find it important to use designs that are somewhat looser in the armpit.

 Since my brick polyester fabric worked out reasonably well I decided to take the plunge and use this gorgeous silk print.  I had a lot of fun cutting out the components and placing the various colors so each item jumped with a contrast.  I ended up using about 4 different colors of thread.

Cutting Line Designs are basically loose fitting, easy to sew and stylish.  I like loose designs when the heat and humidity strike.  This is # 11306 Snap To It.  I rarely follow pattern directions because I am quite picky about seam finishes and bulk.  I'm not super fond of serged seam allowances. I use them when I need to.  I prefer clean finishes whenever possible.  I prefer not to use fusible products because they add some stiffness to the fabric.  I always hand baste.  If I don't care for the placement or fit I can easily remove basting stitches but not glue.  That's the beauty of sewing... every step is custom!  Why settle for ready-to-wear when you can create a custom garment?

I used a zipper with large plastic teeth for the closure and decoration.  The fabric is a cotton silk and viscose blend with somewhat rigid thread ribs.  I had purchased the same fabric in two different colors from Sawyer Brook Distinctive Fabrics back in 2005.  Most of my fabrics curate until they 'speak to me'.

This is Burda July 95.  The hemline is distinctive.

Vogue Geoffrey Beene Wool Boucle Coat 2585

Geoffrey Beene designs are among my most favorite patterns to sew.  The comfort and design of the sleeves is hard to compare.  I underlined the wool boucle with silk double georgette.  It was difficult to find an underlining that didn't peek through.  I tested various buttonholes and decided on bound buttonholes to showcase these beautiful buttons.  I'm so lucky to have a machine that stitches out the rectangle buttonhole stitch....so great for those bound buttonholes. I have the BERNINA 830LE which allows me to adjust the width of my rectangle as well.

 I hand basted the silk underlining to keep it from shifting during construction.   The underlining also helps to support four pockets on the jacket front. This garment is self-lined with the same wool boucle.  Much to my surprise I found the collar to be quite warm and comfortable.   The buttonhole at the neckline is part of the seam.

The pocket flaps have working bound buttonholes too!