I just finished Butterick 6208 in my last post. I used the traditional method of 'hand basting' each tuck line with contrasting thread. It takes time to mark each line and then run a basting thread. The results are great and that is important to me. So many people do NOT want to hand baste. I have tried using water soluble pens and chalk. They often leave a 'hot mess' on fine fabrics. As soon as the steam from the iron makes contact with those lines they either disappear or stain the fabric. So, you better get it right on the first try or accept the fact you will be starting over.
I developed a NEW system using Sulky Totally Stable fusible paper to mark my lines. This fusible paper is safe on silk charmeuse and other fine fabrics. My ruler is Quilters Select. It has the non-slip coating which keeps it from moving on the paper. I cut one inch wide strips and fused them very close together on the fabric. Look closely. They are placed so close it looks like I drew a pencil line on the paper. I DO NOT have to mark anything on my fabric.
I machine stitched a basting line between the strips. The basting thread should be a strong contrast for best visibility. Initially I was just going to draw pencil lines on the paper and machine baste on the pencil lines. The problem with that technique is the length of the stitch. If you perforate the paper with a tiny stitch the paper will tear away easily. Basting stitches are large making it difficult to tear the paper. The large basting stitches are easy to remove after all tucks have been sewn.
By using one inch wide strips you completely eliminate the tearing process plus you can re-fuse the strips a few more times! Yeah!
Use your steam iron to press each tuck . The basting lines will not disappear from the iron steam. The contrast thread is your fold line. For absolutely perfect tucks I use Bernina foot #57 with the side flange. (all my thread tails will be inserted manually into the tuck with a needle) . Do not clip your threads or the tuck could open up.
Butterick 6208 uses a pattern overlay which is a great method. Nice and accurate.
I'm ready for summer!