I am making this indoor/ outdoor sweater coat for my Mom. She's 92 and really feels the cold. She dresses in multiple layers. Hopefully this will keep her toasty warm!
I bought this beautiful wool coating stripe from Banksville Fabrics (Norwalk, Ct.) November 2018. Thick coating fabrics can be very difficult to stitch if you choose a pattern with too many design features. Avoid darts, tucks, shoulder pads, front facings, extra seams, welts etc. Keep it super simple! I didn't even put on the patch pockets.
(I didn't add the wool braid to the sleeve hemline because I don't know the exact sleeve length until she receives this gift. The hem is 2 inches deep.)
I decided to allow the flannel backed lining to hang freely at the hemline like you often see with rain coats. When a lining is attached to the bottom hemline it may pull or pucker if the length isn't exact. This method eliminates a possible bagging. I used a silk twill and my bias binder to finish off the lining hemline.
I used heavy duty Gutermann Upholstery thread to create the French Tack between the seam allowance and the lining. This will help to keep the lining from creeping up.
I tested every possible buttonhole option. I couldn't get a key hole to look good. I tweaked the density and buttonhole bead width on every buttonhole style. I ALWAYS test buttonholes to get the correct recipe. Every fabric will be different. My Bernina 830 and 790 have the capacity to spread the buttonhole beads! LOVE, LOVE, LOVE those Bernina buttonholes! This test sample pictured below goes to show you it takes some effort to find the right stitch combination. I placed black silk organza on the top to flatten the texture and add strength to the buttonhole. It doesn't even show when trimmed down!
These buttons came off my Vogue Geoffrey Beene jacket that I made 20 years ago!
This wool fold-over braid was the perfect finishing touch. No bulk from facings!
Enjoy those toasty warm winter fabrics. Keep it simple! Good luck.