The minute I saw this super plain neckline on a 'ready-to-wear' T-shirt I knew I needed to make a pattern from this garment. It screamed "simple" and looked really attractive too ! The 'neckline' is the first thing you see when you look at a garment and the most challenging component of the construction process on a knit top. Constructing a neckline with the correct amount of stretch and recovery means finding the perfect fabric or elastic. There are tons and tons of notions available these days if you want to take on that challenge. I just want a knit top to be super easy.
I don't normally sew too many knit garments. Not really my thing. Knit garments are everywhere and the prices are ridiculously reasonable. I would rather spend my time sewing gorgeous woven fabrics like linen, silk, wool and pimas cottons. It's very difficult these days to find beautifully constructed natural fiber garments. (That's another long topic.) That's why I sew! I made four (4) of these tops this week with my knit remnants!!! Super fast. Super easy.
Step 1: Copy the garment. Place a large piece of paper onto a surface that will accept pins. (You can use the wrong side of a table mat if you still own one that isn't being used.) Place tons of straight pins into the seam line of the garment. Disregard the seam allowances. (inside out)
Step 2: After the garment is completely pinned down you can pull out all the pins. Now get out a pencil and connect the dots. All those tiny little holes. Since this garment is a T-shirt I only needed to pin one-half of the garment. Place the pattern on the fold for a whole pattern piece.
Step 3: Add the amount of seam allowance you wish to sew with. For knits I like using 3/8 inch. Add the hemline depth too. I like to add 1 1/2 inches in case my washer and dryer decide to shrink my fabric. What are the chances of growing taller ? 😁
Step 4: Repeat the same process for the T-shirt back to create your pattern.
Step 5: Repeat process for the sleeve. Knit garments frequently have sleeves where the front and back shape is almost identical. This is not the case for woven fabrics.
Step 6: Last pattern piece. Pin and trace the wedge-shaped shoulder gusset-like insets.
(If you want to completely de-construct your old T-shirt then you have a pattern !)
This is a sample of the fusible knit interfacing. Notice the open weave. This allows for stretch.
Step 1: Fuse a 1inch strip of fusible knit interfacing to the horizontal neckline edge. The upper edge of the neckline is folded over One Inch and Stitched on your standard sewing machine. I prefer a 3.0 stitch length. The fusible interfacing will give the neckline a little bit of support and also keeps the cross-wise top stitching from popping! This particular interfacing has stretch in both directions after the fusing process. All-Bias and woven fusible interfacings do NOT have stretch after they are fused. The rayon viscose fabric is rather limp so this will provide a little bit of body. Mid-weight cotton knits may not need any support at all.
Step 2: Repeat the one inch fusible interfacing on the hem line.
Step 3: Add the folded gusset wedges to the upper edge by the armholes on the neck front. The remainder of this garment is sewn using a serger. It can be sewn with a standard sewing machine as well. Machines today offer several stitches specifically designed for knits.
Serge over the gusset pieces and the raw edge of the neckline if you want the edges to be finished. Fold over the neck edge one inch. Press. Top stitch across the upper edge from one armhole to the opposite armhole. This is the entire front of the neckline.
Step 4: Repeat the same process with the back of the neckline.
Step 5: Adding the sleeves.
Step 6: Side seam, under arm and sleeve. Stitch from the hemline up towards the underarm. Underarm seams should match. Continue stitching toward the sleeve and toward the sleeve band.
Step 7: Cover Stitch: I am 'over the moon' with my Bernina L890 Serger ! The self-threading feature and the built-in video tutorials are beyond my expectations! This serger sews flawlessly over the intersection of the underarm seam allowances.
Happy Sewing!
