Friday, March 15, 2019

Transferring Tuck Lines With Fusible Paper

There must be a faster method that is accurate and safe for fine fabric.   I figured it out ! 

I just finished Butterick 6208 in my last post.   I used the traditional method of  'hand basting' each tuck line with contrasting thread.  It takes time to mark each line and then run a basting thread.  The results are great and that is important to me.  So many people do NOT want to hand baste.  I have tried using water soluble pens and chalk. They often leave a 'hot mess' on fine fabrics.  As soon as the steam from the iron makes contact with those lines they either disappear or stain the fabric.  So, you better get it right on the first try or accept the fact you will be starting over. 

I developed a NEW system using Sulky Totally Stable fusible paper to mark my lines.  This fusible paper is safe on silk charmeuse and other fine fabrics.  My ruler is Quilters Select.  It has the non-slip coating which keeps it from moving on the paper.   I cut one inch wide strips and fused them very close together on the fabric.  Look closely.  They are placed so close it looks like I drew a pencil line on the paper.  I DO NOT have to mark anything on my fabric. 

I machine stitched a basting line between the strips.  The basting thread should be a strong contrast for best visibility.  Initially I was just going to draw pencil lines on the paper and machine baste on the pencil lines.  The problem with that technique is the length of the stitch.   If you perforate the paper with a tiny stitch the paper will tear away easily.  Basting stitches are large making it difficult to tear the paper. The large basting stitches are easy to remove after all tucks have been sewn.
By using one inch wide strips you completely eliminate the tearing process plus you can re-fuse the strips a few more times!  Yeah!

chambray linen
After all the basting lines are machine sewn remove all the strips of  Totally Stable paper.  They can be reused a few times. 
Use your steam iron to press each tuck .  The basting lines will not disappear from the iron steam.  The contrast thread is your fold line.   For absolutely perfect tucks I use  Bernina foot #57 with the side flange.  (all my thread tails will be inserted manually into the tuck with a needle) .  Do not clip your threads or the tuck could open up.

Butterick 6208 uses a pattern overlay which is a great method.  Nice and accurate.

I'm ready for summer!

Friday, March 8, 2019

Butterick 6208 Tunic with French Seams and Side Vents

 I made this sleeveless dress about 2 years ago.  What totally impressed me with this pattern was the approach using an over-lay pattern to trim down the pattern for accuracy after the tucks were sewn.
Let me explain.  There are twelve 1/4 inch tucks.  Now, think about the 'domino effect'.  If you are off  by 1/16" and multiply that by twelve.....  12/16" = 3/4 inch.   Allowing for the 'turn of the cloth' with each tuck is the problem.  If your fabric is very thin your accuracy will be better.

The directions have you prepare all your tucks and then place the overlay pattern to trim down to the perfect size.  GENIUS !!!    When a quilter makes a 12 " block they use a 12" square ruler to 'sure up' the block to the exact size.

I am making View A.  Tunic.  Mid-thigh length with sleeves.

Note:  Pattern is now Out of Print but can still be purchased at Club BMV as of March 2019.

If you flip through Ready to Wear Catalogs like Coldwater Creek this tunic design is extremely popular.

I made 1/4 inch bias tubes for the buttonhole loops  Turned them inside out with my tube turner.

 I just love sewing French Seams on light weight fabrics.  This cotton lawn was purchased from Sawyer Brook Fabrics in MA.

Next to the pencil mark you can see that I terminated the French seam and added a side vent about 5 inches deep.   (Pencil marks wash out.)

In an older post I showed all the steps.
Close up of the 1/4 inch tucks. 

This time around I made the design as a long tunic with 3/4 length sleeves.  I placed French seams inside the sleeves as well.  Looks nicer if you choose to roll up.  The pattern called for six button.  I added one loop more.  (7 button