Working With Heavy Coating Fabrics.

This Burda jacket pattern was included as a supplement to Husqvarna  Viking Zig -Zag Magazine, Volume 9.  (These are still available on Ebay and Etsy)
I am making this indoor/ outdoor sweater coat for my Mom.  She's 92 and really feels the cold. She dresses in multiple layers. Hopefully this will keep her toasty warm!

I bought this beautiful wool coating stripe from Banksville Fabrics (Norwalk, Ct.) November 2018.  Thick coating fabrics can be very difficult to stitch if you choose a pattern with too many design features.   Avoid darts, tucks, shoulder pads, front facings, extra seams, welts etc.  Keep it super simple!   I didn't even put on the patch pockets.

(I didn't add the wool braid to the sleeve hemline because I don't know the exact sleeve length until she receives this gift. The hem is 2 inches deep.)

I decided to allow the flannel backed lining to hang freely at the hemline like you often see with rain coats. When a lining is attached to the bottom hemline it may pull or pucker if the length isn't exact.  This method eliminates a possible bagging.  I used a silk twill and my bias binder to finish off the lining hemline. 

I used heavy duty Gutermann Upholstery thread to create the French Tack between the seam allowance and the lining.  This will help to keep the lining from creeping up. 

I tested every possible buttonhole option.  I couldn't get a key hole to look good.  I tweaked the density and buttonhole bead width on every buttonhole style.  I ALWAYS test buttonholes to get the correct recipe.  Every fabric will be different.   My Bernina 830 and 790 have the capacity to spread the buttonhole beads!  LOVE, LOVE, LOVE those Bernina buttonholes!   This test sample pictured below goes to show you it takes some effort to find the right stitch combination.   I placed black silk organza on the top to flatten the texture and add strength to the buttonhole.  It doesn't even show when trimmed down! 

These buttons came off my Vogue Geoffrey Beene jacket that I made 20 years ago! 

  This wool fold-over braid was the perfect finishing touch.   No bulk from facings! 

Enjoy those toasty warm winter fabrics.  Keep it simple!  Good luck.  

Super Easy Nightgowns

I have made this tank nightgown at least 15 times!  There is no commercial pattern for this tank gown.  I had an old worn out ready-to-wear gown that I cut up and used as my pattern; except I made it longer.

 A yard and one half makes an ankle length gown.  I find the longer length doesn't creep up as much when I flip in my sleep. 


The cotton fabrics are from Banksville Fabrics in Norwalk, Connecticut.











The 'Stretch' thread is from Wawak sewing supplies upstate New York.  The 'stretch' thread is Gutermann Maraflex #120.  This is NOT a wooly nylon.  It is a very strong, stretch thread that works beautifully in the needles of the serger.   This thread really keeps the needle threads from popping.  I highly recommend it.  This thread can not be compared with typical serger cone threads.

I have tried using self-fabric neck and armhole bindings but the fold-over elastic (5/8 inch) consistently produces necklines that maintain the best shape.  Fold over elastics are available in a variety of widths.  These are readily available on Etsy and Ebay at great prices.    The tiny flower lets me know the front from the back in case I'm too tired and put it on backwards.  Yes, that has happened when I didn't turn the light on.

I hand baste the fold-over elastic to the neckline because this eliminates issues with the elastic feeding the fabric inconsistently.  Sewing machines have a way of making the layers push at different rates.  No waves or puckers when you  hand baste.  Also, I off set my seams to the back of the armhole so there is NO bulk at the underarm side seam.   I use a 1.5 width zig-zag stitch on the raw edge of the elastic. 

My side seams were sewn on a two-needle/ 4 thread serger using the Gutermann 120 Stretch thread with Gutermann E382 Wooly Nylon in the lower looper.  This makes the horizontal looper threads soft against the skin.   (threads from Wawak.com )

This photo above is the inside of the hem showing how the wooly nylon is used with the Baby lock Cover Stitch.   (below)  This is a 'stand alone' cover stitch machine.  So, yes, I am using two separate machines.  My Husqvarna Viking Huskylock 936  has a built in cover stitch but it is quite time consuming to convert to the cover stitch feature.  It's also frustrating to perform this task if you are bouncing back and forth between seams and hems.  Honestly, I don't like changing all the threads either !

And this is the cover stitch sewn on the Baby Lock cover stitch only machine.