Build a Better Buttonhole

"So, how do you like your new Epic? "   I'm getting asked this question a lot this month!   It takes a while to truly learn the temperament and features of any new machine before you bond.  No two machines are alike.  I have learned to appreciate and respect each piece of equipment for different reasons.  When the kids at school would ask me which machine I like better I told them it's sort of like loving your own children.  You love and respect each one for different reasons.

Now, on to the buttonholes!  I am super picky about buttonholes. I simply would never purchase a machine that can't make a good buttonhole.  No machine will make a great buttonhole unless you use the correct tension,  a finer needle, quality thread and some sort of stabilizer.  Test, test, test!!

I am a 'tweaker'.  I play, adjust, edit, adjust, test, test and test.  So naturally I over-ride the default settings to tweak my buttonholes to a particular fabric.  Imagine that!  Considering the price $$$ of this machine I have a right to expect top performance and I will do what it takes to get there!  Please don't expect any machine (no matter what the price) to solve every issue.  The sewing machine operator must assume some responsibility. On most of my buttonholes I like to spread the side beads for a slightly wider opening.  If you even clip one thread on the row of bead stitches the whole buttonhole can start to unravel.  (And please don't use clear fabric glues on the threads.  That's like applying clear nail polish!  Chances are you will have a hard, crusty, blob stain.)

Widening the two rows of beads is super easy to do on my Bernina 830 LE!  I just love their buttonhole features.  On the Viking Epic I figured a way to obtain the look I want.  It took a little time but I finally figured it out.  I select buttonhole #42 with traditional bar tack which has a slightly wider opening designed for heavier fabrics.  This will show a 0.4 stitch density.   The machine will automatically have a slightly wider bead for a medium to heavy weight fabric.  Then I select  Light Weight fabric instead of medium weight fabric and this will force the machine to make a narrower line of bead stitches  on the #42.  The stitch density on the light weight fabric will default at 0.3 length.  I bump it up to 0.4 so I do not get a tight row of stitches. ( the light blue numbers indicate the machine settings are not at the default setting.) This is often too rigid on cotton voile and charmeuse.  If you begin the process by entering lightweight fabric first the machine will automatically pick the buttonhole with rounded bar tack and 0.3 density.  The Epic stitches an under-layment line of straight stabilizer stitches from the front to the back and then the line of bead stitches will form back to front. If the machine stitches one side in one direction and the other side in the opposite direction you may need to adjust the balance which is slightly tricky.  Both lines of stitches on the Epic are sewn in the same direction which usually makes for a more consistent looking buttonhole.  (On some of my older Berninas you could apply the 'twin needle' feature while stitching out the buttonhole and the machine would be tricked into making a narrower zig-zag on the bead because the machine thought the twin needle would hit the throat plate opening as it sewed side to side.)  Do yourself a favor and save your settings into a personal file folder for future usage so you don't have to modify your settings each time.  Most machines can be tweaked by reducing the tension settings.   And finally,  I write down your settings noting what thread, stabilizer, needle etc. you used. Staple your sample to a reference sheet.  Once I took the time to work out a few kinks the buttonhole was beautiful.

Buttonhole Stabilizers: 
Every so often I come across photos and videos featuring embroidery cut away stabilizers and clear water soluble stabilizers to obtain a good buttonhole.  At first glance this seems like a plausible solution.  Both types of stabilizers will help to achieve pucker free stitches.  Once again, at first glance, the buttonhole is smooth and pucker free.  But, who really wants to have cut away stabilizer on the underneath side of the buttonhole forever?  It's not exactly attractive and it's not every pliable.   And I'm not about to spend my time picking that stuff out!  Sometimes a lightweight water soluble stabilizer provides just enough support to obtain stitches that aren't tense or rigid.  What happens to the buttonhole after the garment has been washed several times ?  Will the  buttonholes continue to stretch out and get wonky ?  Cording a buttonhole is another option .  This may be a better choice for wool tweed and coating.
My favorite 'go to' for just about any fabric is to add silk organza between the fabric layers and sometimes below the buttonhole.  Even if you trim the excess away from the buttonhole the silk organza is just about invisible.  Sandwiching a square between the fabric layers will provide strength and pliability through repeated laundering. (That's all I did on the cotton floral above.)  If you are still getting some puckers it may be time to lighten up on the tension as well.

Attaching the Buttons:
Sewing on a button with just the 'ankle' and no foot attachment was eventful to say the least.  Then I had to place the 'height compensation tool' below the button to allow for a button shank space which totally blocked visibility of my attachment spot. Then you were supposed to use tape to hold things in place. Unfortunately, tape just doesn't hold things too well.  I had to use both index fingers on the sides of the button to hold the button in position hoping the needle bar wouldn't crush my fingers.  It took a while to test the distance between the holes to get the width down accurately.  Thankfully it didn't hit my fingers but they really need to improve this process.  Not Fun !!!  So far this is the only feature that is disappointing.  Bernina has #18 button attachment foot with two rubberized feet that grip the buttonhole plus has a center bar to obtain various shank height options.  This works really well.  No one machine does everything perfect which is why you learn to appreciate each machine for a specific task.  It took me a while to get the hang of it.