Wednesday, February 8, 2017

Another Burda pattern challenge.

This is Burda magazine September 2014, pattern # 122.  This dress has a circular godet inset on the front.  The back of the hemline is longer than the front.  I chose to modify the back length because I didn't particularly care about looking into the wrong side of the fabric from the front view.   I also added a full lining.  The pattern calls for the lining to end just below the hips which didn't appeal to me.  I also added black birds-eye linen piping to the upper bodice segments.  This 'salt and pepper' fabric is from Sawyer Brook Distinctive Fabrics.  (linen and silk blend crepe yarn)





                                             I used an invisible zipper on the center back.

I used Bemberg Ambiance rayon lining.   To make sure you are getting the real deal look for the gold printed lettering along the selvage of the fabric.  Ambiance is totally machine washable .  
Refer to the manufacturers directions. 




I hand basted the 1/4 inch hem to keep ripples from forming on this circular hemline before I machine stitched the tiny hem.  That was time well-spent.   (I do hand sewing/basting when I find myself waiting while my car is being serviced or while I am in the doctors waiting room. )



Finishing touches:  I made a ONE inch long French tack to keep the lining from creeping up.

















I LOVE Buttons !

More than 10 years ago The New York Times printed a feature news article on the Button and Notion Centre located in Rockville Centre, Long Island, New York.  Needless to say, as soon as I read that article I was in my car driving down Southern State Parkway to this wonderful old shop in the village. ( It's within walking distance of the Long Island rail road.)  Wow, wow, wow!!!!  This shop has more buttons  than any store that I have ever seen in Manhattan.  I can spend hours in this store! 
On my latest trip I found a 'mother of pearl' buckle for my wool hounds-tooth jumper. I NEVER make buttonholes in a garment until I have the perfect button.  I never cut out a garment until I have all the notions I need.  That may take some time to gather the perfect thread, the perfect lining, the perfect buttons and the perfect pattern.  It's always worth the wait !  I'm always much happier with the end results.
Here are a few of my latest finds from this wonderful button store. The owners really know how to find just the perfect button.




 Above: Mother of Pearl belt buckle. Fabric: cashmere/wool blend hounds tooth from Banksville Fabrics in Connecticut.  Banksville is another store that I can spend hour after hour fondling luxurious fabric.  The quality is just unbelievable.  Definitely worth the drive from anywhere!

Below:  Note the 'cross yarns' on the button match the continuous eyelash yarns in the fabric! How cool is that ?  This silk/rayon blend fabric is from Sawyer Brook Fabrics, MA.



Gold wool Boucle is a Pendleton fabric. 


                                         Above: Silk and linen blend tweed is from                                                                                                Sawyer Brook Fabrics, Clinton, MA.
                                           Below: Mother of pearl buttons on silk jacquard.