Monday, April 20, 2020

Geoffrey Beene Jackets and Coats (Vogue 1741,1985)

 I have constructed this Vogue Geoffrey Beene 1741 jacket at least six times and will keep making it!   The shoulders are slightly dropped and it does not require shoulder pads.  Sometimes a very thin shoulder pad is desirable to maintain shoulder support.  It feels like a sweater when you wear it.

Note: These patterns are Out Of Print.  They are very hard to find.  Every once in a while you might get lucky on Ebay or Etsy. 

This one is made with raw silk.  The button holes are 'windows'.   Buttons are natural shell.   I did not follow the directions for the pocket welt.  I always construct a pocket welt with a diagonal side seam to eliminate the bulk on the side seam.





The rust and grey is a wool fancy tweed.  The button holes once again are 'windows'.   This type of button hole is particularly well-suited to loosely woven fabrics.  Machine made buttonholes will tear away from loosely woven fabrics.  Buttons are from Sawyer Brook Distinctive fabrics in MA.



This wool tweed has mohair and a few metallic threads woven in.  I made Bound Buttonholes for this one.

Fabric: Sawyer Brook, MA.



















This is Vogue Geoffrey Beene 2195.  It has a dropped shoulder.   No lining.  Angled shoulder yoke and cuffs.

I'm sure you could eliminate the cuff and have a plain sleeve too.


This is a medium weight Pendleton wool flannel.  High quality woolens may not need a lining because they aren't itchy.

On a few of these jackets I did a partial lining to the back panel. I doubled the front panel to conceal the pockets and give the zipper more support.

This jacket works so well with pants for a more casual look.
It uses a 24 inch separating zipper.





Please let me know if you would like directions to create a welt pocket.

In my opinion, their envelope photo doesn't do justice to end product. 

I turned the jacket inside out so you can see how I added the lining to the back plus I added a free-floating back 'stay' with an embroidery.  This provides additional structural support to the shoulder hanger.








 



More fabric from Sawyer Brook MA.

Pendleton wool of course.

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