Summer Tank Dress - 'Burrito Style' Kicked Up a Notch

 So, what exactly is a 'burrito-style' method ?   That's where you roll up a portion of your garment like a hot dog and pull it through a narrow area.  The technique is designed to eliminate all raw seam edges with the clean finish of a facing. This tank dress requires a full bodice facing to accomplish the task.   Tank style tops or dresses will actually pass through the shoulder straps providing the strap width isn't too terribly narrow.  This same technique is often seen on men's shirts.  The double yoke encloses the neckline and horizontal back shoulder seam.  I have also seen this done on the wide hem of a pillow case.  That being said, the fabric can't be too thick and bulky or it simply will not pass through a tube that is too narrow.  

 In the photo below the dress is being pulled through the shoulder seam which is only 2" wide.  A shoulder strap width of 2 1/2" is definitely easier to work with.  The turning process will be much easier.  Adding strips of silk organza to the seams as they are being stitched will add significant strength.  My goal is to keep the seams from popping.

Working with Knits:  (Typical complaints with easy solutions)

1. Knit fabrics curl and Ripple.  Go 'old-school'.  Baste the edges down.  Side seams and hemlines are easily controlled by basting.  Basting is rather fast and very accurate. The layers wont shift causing ripples at the hem lines.

2.  Stitches pop.   On areas like armholes and necklines there are several techniques that I like to use to prevent  seams from popping and stretching out of shape. Stitch over a narrow strip of silk organza or rayon seam binding. These will stop 'gap-osis'.  On tailored garments you would attach a strip of twill tape.  You can always stitch the seam line twice if you do not have a narrow strip of trim. 

See how the edges curl and need to be 'tamed'.

Construction Steps:  

1. Fuse knit interfacing to the armhole and neckline facing pieces to give a little extra body to the fabric and to minimize stretching of the fabric.  Armholes in knits are prone to stretching out of shape from stress and body warmth.  Bosal 'Silky' fusible interfacing is super light weight with strength.

2.Stitch the shoulder seams.  DO NOT STITCH ANY ARMHOLES OR SIDE SEAMS !!!

3. Stitch Neckline.  I use 3/8" seams on knits.  Grade and clip seams. 

4. Armholes:   First turn the neck hole portion of the dress inside out.   The wrong sides of the facing and the garment will be together.  Place the garment on the table with the Right side of the garment facing you.  The facing needs to be turned and should be below the garment closest to the table.   Roll one side of the garment over the neck hole toward the opposite armhole. 

The 'rolled up' portion of the garment is  actually inside the strap.  You can see the bulk in the strap.  Take note... the body of the garment is brought to the armhole area almost to the facing edge.   I allow 1/8 " away from the armhole for the 'favoring process'.  This keeps the facing portion from being exposed to the outside by removing a hint of the seam allowance. 

 

For the Khaki giraffe jersey knit I sewed over 1/4 inch strips of silk organza around the armscye to prevent stitches from popping. 

Grading and Clipping:  Trim the facing seam allowance in half.  Clip the curved edges approximately 1/2 inch apart.  Clip each layer SEPARATELY so the opening actually straddle over one another.  This helps to eliminate pie wedge openings. 

Top Stitching:  On a knit garment this line of stitching is perhaps more functional than decorative.  Locking the public side of the garment to the facing plus stitching through all the layers of the seam allowance on the neckline and armholes will definitely help any gap-osis,  I basted with a double thread on the lower armhole area to prevent drag lines which are prevalent when you stitch in a different grain direction.  You are stitching downwards on one side of the armhole and then upwards on the opposite side of the armhole.  You're bound to see a few ripples if you choose not to lock the fabric with basting.

Hemlines:

Weighting a Hemline:  If the fabric wants to curl and flip it needs to be weighted.  This can be done by stabilizing with a bias strip of lightweight bias fusible interfacing and/or making the hem deeper.  I prefer to make knits about 1 1/4 inches deep to avoid curling.  (This rose and grey knit has a 1/2 inch hem that has curled.)

Bodice Facing:  This dress has a full bodice facing a few inches below the bust line.  Either use a cover stitch to secure it to the dress or a 'stretch utility stitch'.   Every now and then I find the cover stitch gets snagged and comes apart.  On this turquoise print (from Emma One Sock Fabrics) I used a 'multi-stretch' zig-zag.  It is fairly well hidden in the print and will be very durable. 

Bumble Bee Print:  This fabrication is a double border rail road print out.  Cutting out a garment with a border means the garment will be cut on the 'cross grain'.  Whether it is a woven or a knit the drape and fit will be altered. Go ahead and construct a garment to see for yourself.  My best sewing buddy says it is the 'acid test'.   It is best to select a garment that is loosely fitted to avoid fitting discomfort if you must cut cross grain.  Cutting a garment on the cross grain is usually a nightmare.  This tank style summer dress is a good choice for this circumstance.  I added strips of silk organza in the armholes and neckline for added insurance.  

Bodice Facing: I used a three-step multi-stretch zig-zag stitch across the bodice instead of a cover stitch simply because the individual stitches are larger and more prone to snagging.  I used tape as a guide line for a straight stitch .

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I made five or six dresses this week.  Each one sewed up a little faster. 

Hope a few of these tips will take the fear out of sewing knits.

If you have questions you can always post a question.  Happy Sewing!