Hemlines: Trouble With the Curve

Cutting Line Design New Release-   Danger: Curves Ahead.   

I'm already in the Spring sewing mode.  I know it is still March and we still have snow on the ground.  The daffodils are up about 6 inches now.  I have been waiting for an opportunity to use batik coordinates and this pattern is just perfect to add a contrast.  I will be making the tunic which pops over the head.   I held up the pattern tissue to determine finished length.  It actually covered my butt and then some because I am 5' 2 ".   I decided it was best to shorten it 1 1/2 inches so I wouldn't be sitting on buttons.

The suggested hemline finish is pretty much standard; add a gathering line and pull the bobbin thread to gather.  This method works rather nicely on softly woven fabrics like rayon challis.  I am using a crisp cotton batik and know from experience that a tightly woven crisp fabric will produce tiny, hard bumps at gathering points.  Additionally, the curved areas can be prone to 'cupping' because they are in a 'bias zone'.   

(Serger thread can add bulk as well. )

I decided to use a French bias strip which is smooth, adds a touch of body and looks cleaner.

  

There are two rows of top stitching around the neckline and armholes placed 1/4 inch apart which adds a nice touch.

Personally,  I feel the curved hemline is more flattering across the hip line. 

This went together beautifully.  Nice design. 

Vogue 9293 Screams Spring in Hyacinth Purple Stripes.

This Vogue 9293 dress reminds me so much of Vogue Nina Ricci 1244 from the year 1975.   The bodice and cap sleeves are quite similar.  I have noticed quite a few designs from the 70's making a re-appearance.  I still have most of my patterns from the 70's and 80's.  It pays to hold onto your patterns.  Many of them are still available on Ebay and Etsy.  I still think the guide sheet directions were better in those days.  The Nina Ricci design is a back wrap dress.  I made that pattern at least five times.

I purchased this high quality purple and white shirting from Banksville Fabrics in Connecticut.  They may still have this in stock. Stripes can be very attractive if you take the time to plan out a design. (Otherwise they can make your eyes go crazy!)

My college textiles professor said, " people usually select a color or pattern as shown on the envelope."   Oh, how true.

Bodice alteration:  Pattern companies design the upper bodice to fit a 'B' cup.  The greater majority of dress patterns do not offer multi-sized pre-printed cup sizes to date.  Slowly but surely they are showing up in the pattern books. Typically these cup variations are for the princess style bodice.  Bodice patterns with side and waist darts require a different approach which scares off  too many garment sewing people.  I used white cotton lawn to underline the entire bodice.  I used the same white cotton to make French bias strips for the cap sleeve edges.

The bodice on the Vogue 9293 is a two-piece over-lap with two darts on each side.  The Vogue Nina Ricci 1244  has three small tucks on each side.  This may appear to be a slightly more involved alteration at first glance but it's really not hard at all.  Simply slice horizontally from side seam to side seam on the lengthen and shorten line. Leave the side seam in tact as a hinge point.  You do NOT want to reduce the side seam length.  To reduce the bodice cup size pretend you are taking a small tuck across the bust to remove excess volume.  Overlap the horizontal lines near the center by 1/4- 3/8 inch.  To increase cup size spread the pattern apart .

The small darts are covered by the tie which works out nicely.

I was able to make a French seam on the center front and still match up my stripes pretty well. Just love those Bernina feet with the side flange for perfectly straight seams.

Signs of Spring

My daffodils are already 4 inches high and today is March 1, 2018 !  Spring always motivates me to get sewing on some brighter fabrics. 

Vogue 8997 has proven to be a very successful pattern for a few reasons;  the bodice pattern comes printed in a variety of sizes which means no alterations !   Zipping up the back of the dress is so much easier because I can actually reach the zipper with the lower back neckline.







I have made this dress in linen, cotton sateen and cotton voile.  Of course in cotton voile the entire dress needs an underlining.

The two-piece sleeve is such a pleasure to install because you don't have to worry about a 'flat cap' or  extra easing. The seam allowance in the middle eliminates about 1 1/4 inches of fabric at the shoulder seam.  Setting in a one piece sleeve can be a daunting and frustrating experience getting the ease distributed smoothly.  A poorly installed sleeve can scream 'home-made' as opposed to 'custom made'. And yes, I hand baste the sleeve unit into the armscye to avoid stitching with pins.  The sleeve unit has the cotton lawn lining.

This is the bodice front.  I match my notches.  Clip my curved areas to allow the fabric to bend gently to the side bodice.  I hand baste with a contrast thread at 1/2 inch.   Pins do NOT lock the fabric effectively like basting.  Stopping to remove pins also interrupts the continuity of the stitch line. Stitch from the bottom to the top on both units .  If you stitch from top to bottom on one side the final results usually look somewhat distorted.  An 'unbalanced' look at the bust line isn't attractive.



I underlined the entire bodice with a fine cotton lawn.  Underlining the bodice helps to prevent the underarm area from discoloration from perspiration and deodorants.

An underlining makes everything cleaner .

An underlining adds subtle structure.

(sleeves are lined)

This dress has a full skirt which is similar to sewing a round tablecloth.  A Ban-roll hemline will totally eliminate the forward ripple on the cross grain. 








This fabric came from Banksville fabrics in Connecticut. They have a fabulous website.  Their staff is great!

 Cotton sateen with a small amount of lycra.  The full skirt is fluid. Too much lycra can dramatically increase body taking away from fluidity.