This wool Glen plaid from Sawyer Brook is slightly heavier, more lofty and more spongy than the hounds tooth check. The weave is also looser. I mark the right side of my fabric with a contrast thread so I know which is the right side and which is the wrong side.
On fabrics that need help with pressing I use my Rajah press cloth. Normally I use silk organza to press most fabrics but this particular wool was more resilient and needed a little more taming.
On the armholes I wanted to make French bias binding but knew it would be too bulky. I ended up making the single layer of bias binding. I 'steam shape' the bias strips into a curve before I baste them to the arm hole.
I also under-stitched the facings with a hand 'pick' stitch. Normally I would machine stitch the bias binding but I didn't like the way the machine stitching was pushing the weave of the stripes. I ended up hand stitching the bias binding to the lining.
The Ralph Lauren silk charmeuse came from Banksville fabrics. Normally I use Bemberg Ambiance rayon for my lining or china silk but I had this silk charmeuse design that just called to be combined with this plaid ! I suppose I could have made a beautiful blouse but I felt it lacked color.
This large bound buttonhole is placed on the bias. The belt strap feeds through the buttonhole on the right side front.
I serged the seam allowances on this loosely woven fabric. The hem has rayon seam binding to cover the raw edge. I hand sewed a catch stitch on the seam binding.
I rarely use the machine blind stitch because I do not like those dots of thread showing on the right side!
For the sake of photography I added the red cashmere sweater to show how a bright pop of color will look.
Guess my next sewing project will be a blouse with long sleeves in a bright color to wear with this jumper. I totally love the red contrast but I don't know about the short sleeves.
I really like how the lapel flaps bring more interest toward the face.
(The colors are 'off' in this photo. Sorry. )
Once again, I omitted the large pockets at the hips. Sadle bags are not flattering ! The designer intended this to be worn almost ankle length. Since I'm 5'2" I felt knee length is more flattering to my height.
