Tuesday, March 6, 2018

Vogue 9293 Screams Spring in Hyacinth Purple Stripes.

This Vogue 9293 dress reminds me so much of Vogue Nina Ricci 1244 from the year 1975.   The bodice and cap sleeves are quite similar.  I have noticed quite a few designs from the 70's making a re-appearance.  I still have most of my patterns from the 70's and 80's.  It pays to hold onto your patterns.  Many of them are still available on Ebay and Etsy.  I still think the guide sheet directions were better in those days.  The Nina Ricci design is a back wrap dress.  I made that pattern at least five times.


I purchased this high quality purple and white shirting from Banksville Fabrics in Connecticut.  They may still have this in stock. Stripes can be very attractive if you take the time to plan out a design. (Otherwise they can make your eyes go crazy!)

My college textiles professor said, " people usually select a color or pattern as shown on the envelope."   Oh, how true.

Bodice alteration:  Pattern companies design the upper bodice to fit a 'B' cup.  The greater majority of dress patterns do not offer multi-sized pre-printed cup sizes to date.  Slowly but surely they are showing up in the pattern books. Typically these cup variations are for the princess style bodice.  Bodice patterns with side and waist darts require a different approach which scares off  too many garment sewing people.  I used white cotton lawn to underline the entire bodice.  I used the same white cotton to make French bias strips for the cap sleeve edges.

The bodice on the Vogue 9293 is a two-piece over-lap with two darts on each side.  The Vogue Nina Ricci 1244  has three small tucks on each side.  This may appear to be a slightly more involved alteration at first glance but it's really not hard at all.  Simply slice horizontally from side seam to side seam on the lengthen and shorten line. Leave the side seam in tact as a hinge point.  You do NOT want to reduce the side seam length.  To reduce the bodice cup size pretend you are taking a small tuck across the bust to remove excess volume.  Overlap the horizontal lines near the center by 1/4- 3/8 inch.  To increase cup size spread the pattern apart .


The small darts are covered by the tie which works out nicely.



I was able to make a French seam on the center front and still match up my stripes pretty well. Just love those Bernina feet with the side flange for perfectly straight seams.








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