Friday, March 23, 2018

Hemlines: Trouble With the Curve

Cutting Line Design New Release-   Danger: Curves Ahead.   

I'm already in the Spring sewing mode.  I know it is still March and we still have snow on the ground.  The daffodils are up about 6 inches now.  I have been waiting for an opportunity to use batik coordinates and this pattern is just perfect to add a contrast.  I will be making the tunic which pops over the head.   I held up the pattern tissue to determine finished length.  It actually covered my butt and then some because I am 5' 2 ".   I decided it was best to shorten it 1 1/2 inches so I wouldn't be sitting on buttons.


The suggested hemline finish is pretty much standard; add a gathering line and pull the bobbin thread to gather.  This method works rather nicely on softly woven fabrics like rayon challis.  I am using a crisp cotton batik and know from experience that a tightly woven crisp fabric will produce tiny, hard bumps at gathering points.  Additionally, the curved areas can be prone to 'cupping' because they are in a 'bias zone'.   

(Serger thread can add bulk as well. )



I decided to use a French bias strip which is smooth, adds a touch of body and looks cleaner.



There are two rows of top stitching around the neckline and armholes placed 1/4 inch apart which adds a nice touch.

Personally,  I feel the curved hemline is more flattering across the hip line. 

This went together beautifully.  Nice design. 

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