Signs of Spring

My daffodils are already 4 inches high and today is March 1, 2018 !  Spring always motivates me to get sewing on some brighter fabrics. 

Vogue 8997 has proven to be a very successful pattern for a few reasons;  the bodice pattern comes printed in a variety of sizes which means no alterations !   Zipping up the back of the dress is so much easier because I can actually reach the zipper with the lower back neckline.







I have made this dress in linen, cotton sateen and cotton voile.  Of course in cotton voile the entire dress needs an underlining.

The two-piece sleeve is such a pleasure to install because you don't have to worry about a 'flat cap' or  extra easing. The seam allowance in the middle eliminates about 1 1/4 inches of fabric at the shoulder seam.  Setting in a one piece sleeve can be a daunting and frustrating experience getting the ease distributed smoothly.  A poorly installed sleeve can scream 'home-made' as opposed to 'custom made'. And yes, I hand baste the sleeve unit into the armscye to avoid stitching with pins.  The sleeve unit has the cotton lawn lining.

This is the bodice front.  I match my notches.  Clip my curved areas to allow the fabric to bend gently to the side bodice.  I hand baste with a contrast thread at 1/2 inch.   Pins do NOT lock the fabric effectively like basting.  Stopping to remove pins also interrupts the continuity of the stitch line. Stitch from the bottom to the top on both units .  If you stitch from top to bottom on one side the final results usually look somewhat distorted.  An 'unbalanced' look at the bust line isn't attractive.



I underlined the entire bodice with a fine cotton lawn.  Underlining the bodice helps to prevent the underarm area from discoloration from perspiration and deodorants.

An underlining makes everything cleaner .

An underlining adds subtle structure.

(sleeves are lined)

This dress has a full skirt which is similar to sewing a round tablecloth.  A Ban-roll hemline will totally eliminate the forward ripple on the cross grain. 








This fabric came from Banksville fabrics in Connecticut. They have a fabulous website.  Their staff is great!

 Cotton sateen with a small amount of lycra.  The full skirt is fluid. Too much lycra can dramatically increase body taking away from fluidity.