Have Covid Cabin Fever? I bet you I can make a 'Silk Purse from a Sow's Ear' by the time this virus passes !

     When it comes to any sewing project I just sort of create as I go.  I have a few general ideas in mind but nothing concrete.  I have to explore my stash to find possible coordinates, linings, trims, buttons, zippers, threads, etc.   After all, it would be a 'sin' not to use some of the stuff from shopping expeditions at those gigantic vending halls while attending Original Sewing and Craft Expos!  We gather like cattle to shop in those market places!  So, peruse your collection of treasures for your next project.  You never know when an item will say, '"pick me, pick me".   Admit it, we all spend days, even years fondling our treasured purchases just contemplating how to use them in a project.   And since we really can't shop locally for fabrics and notions during these months of confinement we should use what we have.

      When I cut out the fabric for the pattern I always wait to cut out the lining.  Since lining is one of the last steps it can wait until I know what I'm doing.  I like to see how the construction process goes.  Naturally,  I test out ideas on samples first before I take the plunge on the garment because I know I will make many changes when I see the results on samples. I will make thread color adjustments, stitch length adjustments, and needle type.  Yes, needle!  If I am top-stitching the garment I can get a nicer stitch with a straight stitch plate, straight stitch foot,  and needle with a larger eye !  If I have to make any fitting adjustments to my garment I don't want to repeat the same correction on the lining.  I will tweak my changes on the pattern before I cut the lining.
   
   Pattern guide sheets are intended to show you a chronological sequence of construction.  They are NOT attempting to show you the most appropriate seam finish nor can they suggest how to embellish beyond the basics.  The seam finish is determined by the type of fabric you have selected and the weight.  From that jumping point you can get creative with your own ideas.
      I  never make a garment and then go to the store for buttons.  I do that in reverse.  If the fabric is blouse weight I buy blouse size buttons.  If it is heavy weight I buy jacket size buttons.   I  buy gorgeous buttons to match the fabric and then I pick out a pattern to coordinate with the button size and style.  With all the patterns I have to pick from surely I can find one with the correct amount of buttons.  (Button and Notion Center, Rockville Centre, NY. is the BEST ! )

This is Vogue Geoffrey Beene 2195 and I am using a denim from Emma One Sock. 

Vogue 2195  inside view of jacket front with exposed pocket pouch.

     Quite often denim jackets are UN-LINED.  Some of the nicer  ready-to-wear jackets will have 'Bound ' seam finishes.  (see attachment below)
   

 The guide sheet illustration shows exposed pockets and minimal support near the zipper.  A full FRONT self lined facing will cure both these issues.

Easy fix:  Simply cut out two more pieces of the front panel like the upper yoke.

This is a bias binder to create BOUND seam finishes. 

BOUND seam finishes on a Bark Cloth cotton dress. 

This is my pocket welt. I use a light weight fusible to stabilize grain distortion. By using a trapezoid rather than a rectangle the side seams are rotated.  (This is also known as a Japanese welt.)

 






This is the interior view of the back.  The pattern does NOT call for a back lining.  It's very easy to create a lining by using the same pattern piece for the jacket.  I chose a cotton batik print because the jacket is denim.   If the jacket were wool I would have used a silk twill.

   When I cut this jacket out I had NO plans to add embroidery.  One of my sewing buddies suggested some embroidery.  (Don't you just love taking photos and texting with your sewing companions?  It's the best tool ever!)
      These swirls came from the Bernina Inspiration collection that came with 830LE.

     Normally I would stitch the embroidery onto the fabric BEFORE I cut out the pattern piece.  It's easier to hoop yardage than to figure out placement between seams and zippers.








     This beautiful cotton denim came from Emma One Sock in PA.  The quality is superb! So incredibly soft without the bounce back of lycra.  I'm not overly fond of lycra because the elastane alters the natural drape.  Every once in a while you may encounter the needle snagging the lycra causing a dot of white.  That makes me grit my teeth!

I had every intention of making button holes for the cuffs.  I tested out several button hole styles with different density and bead width.  What is especially nice about a Bernina button hole is that you can spread the bead width for a wider opening on thicker fabrics!  My Bernina 830 LE stitched out a gorgeous button hole.  When I cut the button hole open on my sample I decided I didn't want to see any of those little yarn whiskers.  And I'm not about to put on any liquid glue to stop fraying.  Those liquids discolor the fabric and create a crusty droplet!   That's when I heard a little gremlin in my head telling me to use snaps as the closure with a button on the outside.  (My #1 sewing buddy uses this technique all the time.)

The monitor isn't showing an accurate color . 

I am using the same printed Batik for a blouse. No buttons yet. 

By adding a full front facing the pocket is completely concealed and the zipper has more support.

During this time when we are spending most of our time at home with our families I am so very thankful I have a hobby that allows me to spend my time productive and creative.  It's even more rewarding when you can pass on the love of sewing to your children, grand children and friends in person or with the assistance of technology !