I named this my 'Orca whale' dress. The black and white contrast is definitely eye-catching. I'm always amazed by the vibrant colors we find in animals, tropical fish, birds and flowers.
This is Vogue DKNY 1408
Hemline Considerations:
1.) Lengthen the dress 3-4 inches for those of us who are 'baby boomers' and choose not to wear short dresses. I need 38 inches for it to meet my knee cap. Sometimes the photo on the envelope isn't that obvious.
2.) Quite frequently the circumference of the hemline is indicated on the back of the pattern envelope or sometime on the guide sheet. I couldn't find the measurements printed anywhere. The pattern only showed back length. It turned out to measure 154 inches. If the fabric drapes really well the fullness isn't quite as pronounced. I'm not sure about this much fullness.
Fabrics:
Fabrics:
The pattern suggests using fabrics with stretch. That can mean stable knits or fabrics with lycra. I can definitely see this in a wool crepe.
This black and white cotton sateen has very little lycra which is why it is softer and has fairly good drape. Lycra doesn't allow the fabric to accept contours and drape softly so I tend to avoid fabrics with lycra for these reasons. I came across this lacy print in my collection. I felt the design echoed the skirt fullness.
(Both of these beautiful fabrics were purchased at Banksville Fabrics in Norwalk, Connecticut. Just give them a call and they will gladly send appropriate samples to your doorstep.)
(Both of these beautiful fabrics were purchased at Banksville Fabrics in Norwalk, Connecticut. Just give them a call and they will gladly send appropriate samples to your doorstep.)
This particular pattern is designed to be fully lined. I typically do NOT cut out a lining at the same time as I cut the fabric for the garment. The reason I choose to delay cutting the lining is because I need to give myself time to evaluate whether or not the construction process is meeting my expectations. If I don't like how things are going I can abandon the project. Sometimes I am disappointed with the fit or style. If things are going well then I will cut out the lining. This is the best reason for making a 'Muslin' of a garment first. You need to account for fit, style and construction techniques.
I did make the lining. There were separate lining pieces which meant things would go faster. I used cotton batiste. I normally sew French seams on my linings because they are so clean looking . I also used a french seam below the zipper opening using the technique that I developed for French Seams with a vent.
Hemline Finish: What to do with a circular hemline?
This is a full circle hemline like a round tablecloth. That typically presents issues of rippling as you go against the grain. Also, if you turn the hemline up more than ONE inch the hemline will probably echo ripples to the public side.
For garments that will be machine washed I prefer to sew a 1/2" folded machine stitched hemline for durability. I have two concerns with this approach: #1. the fabric may be too bulky. #2.) I don't want to stop to alternate thread color for each segment.
I decided to think outside the box this time; a contrast bias strip will add a decorative design element with less bulk than a turned and stitched hemline. I used a lightweight shirting stripe. I prefer to stitch from the public side rather than on the edge of the bias strip. The feed dogs help to ease fullness on the underside plus the quality of the straight stitch is usually slightly better. I also use a top stitching needle for a nicer stitch.
Would I make this again? Yes, with a few changes. I found the fit and design very flattering.
My personal changes:
#1. Reduce the fullness of the skirt a little.
#2. Use coordinating fabrics with a softer contrast.
#3. Stabilize the neckline and armholes with a 1/4 inch strip of silk organza to prevent bias grain areas from stretching.
I did make the lining. There were separate lining pieces which meant things would go faster. I used cotton batiste. I normally sew French seams on my linings because they are so clean looking . I also used a french seam below the zipper opening using the technique that I developed for French Seams with a vent.
Hemline Finish: What to do with a circular hemline?
For garments that will be machine washed I prefer to sew a 1/2" folded machine stitched hemline for durability. I have two concerns with this approach: #1. the fabric may be too bulky. #2.) I don't want to stop to alternate thread color for each segment.
I decided to think outside the box this time; a contrast bias strip will add a decorative design element with less bulk than a turned and stitched hemline. I used a lightweight shirting stripe. I prefer to stitch from the public side rather than on the edge of the bias strip. The feed dogs help to ease fullness on the underside plus the quality of the straight stitch is usually slightly better. I also use a top stitching needle for a nicer stitch.
Would I make this again? Yes, with a few changes. I found the fit and design very flattering.
My personal changes:
#1. Reduce the fullness of the skirt a little.
#2. Use coordinating fabrics with a softer contrast.
#3. Stabilize the neckline and armholes with a 1/4 inch strip of silk organza to prevent bias grain areas from stretching.
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