Vogue Adri 1157 Wool Wrap Jumper

This Vogue Adri 1157 is an unlined wrap jumper pattern.  I had no problem adding a lining.   In my post about World War II I made this same design in a beautiful wool/cashmere houndstooth check . I just love the easy fit!  Wrap style garments tend to have less fitting issues which is a real plus as our figure continues to change!  This is a simple and fast garment to construct.  No darts.  No zipper.  Just one buttonhole.

This wool Glen plaid from Sawyer Brook is slightly heavier, more lofty and more spongy than the hounds tooth check. The weave is also looser.  I mark the right side of my fabric with a contrast thread so I know which is the right side and which is the wrong side.
 On fabrics that need help with pressing I use my Rajah press cloth.  Normally I use silk organza to press most fabrics but this particular wool was more resilient and needed a little more taming.

On the armholes I wanted to make French bias binding but knew it would be too bulky.  I ended up making the single layer of bias binding. I 'steam shape' the bias strips into a curve before I baste them to the arm hole.

I also under-stitched the facings with a hand 'pick' stitch. Normally I would machine stitch the bias binding but I didn't like the way the machine stitching was pushing the weave of the stripes.  I ended up hand stitching the bias binding to the lining.

The Ralph Lauren silk charmeuse came from Banksville fabrics. Normally I use Bemberg Ambiance rayon for my lining or china silk but I had this silk charmeuse design that just called to be combined with this plaid !  I suppose I could have made a beautiful blouse but I felt it lacked color.

This large bound buttonhole is placed on the bias.  The belt strap feeds through the buttonhole on the right side front.

I serged the seam allowances on this loosely woven fabric.  The hem has rayon seam binding to cover the raw edge.  I hand sewed a catch stitch on the seam binding.

I rarely use the machine blind stitch because I do not like those dots of thread showing on the right side!

For the sake of photography I added the red cashmere sweater to show how a bright pop of color will look.

Guess my next sewing project will be a blouse with long sleeves in a bright color to wear with this jumper.  I totally love the red contrast but I don't know about the short sleeves.

I really like how the lapel flaps bring more interest toward the face.









(The colors are 'off' in this photo. Sorry. )

Once again, I omitted the large pockets at the hips. Sadle bags are not flattering !    The designer intended this to be worn almost ankle length.  Since I'm 5'2" I felt knee length is more flattering to my height.