When I was considering purchasing this machine I had some idea in my head that I would be able to use perle cotton threads and other decorative yarns. The machine responds best to standard sewing machine threads in the 35-50 weight range. Variegated threads are particularly attractive. Now that I have figured it out I am absolutely loving this hand-picked stitch! I used the hand-picked stitch on the black collar of a tailored dress. Wow, did that turn out great! Can't wait to try it on a quilt.
I'm working on a fitted Vogue Ralph Rucci dress. His designs usually have batting, tubing, channels, etc. They are labor intensive to say the least which is why some of these designer garments cost the big bucks. I have a whole new appreciation for this detail work. Anyhow, the guide sheet directions suggest polyester batting, interfacing and lining sandwiched together in the areas where there is the echo stitching. A lot of density and bulk were my initial thoughts. Quilters know how stiff a project can become when the rows of stitching or stippling are very close together.
My fabric is a soft, mid weight linen. The pattern suggests linen or silk shantung which can be crisp or stiff in drape. I tested several samples using polyester batting, cotton flannel, Grid-weft interfacing and cotton batting for pliability along with the china silk backing. I tested various threads on the standard sewing machine and the Babylock Sashiko machine. The hand-quilted look definitely jumped out. The rows of top-stitching looked lost. I decided against using the lining fabric during the quilting process because of the bulk.Although the guide sheet directions do not suggest removing any bulk from the seam allowances I really couldn't comprehend how I would stitch these thick sandwiches together. It was tedious removing all that bulk from the seam allowances but I did it! (click on individual photo to enlarge your view)
I have the upper bodice just about complete and I'm not really liking it. My variegated top stitching is beautiful but I just don't think a fitted garment should have this much bulky structure. It seems to me all this structure is better suited to a jacket. I'm afraid this bodice will feel like a corset and look like an armadillo. I don't see myself wearing a structured dress. I think I will just stop this project right now and consider this a valuable lesson.
I refuse to view this process as a waste of time and money. I have gained a tremendous amount of new information that will allow me to make different choices in the future. Since the skirt sections are fairly good size I can re-use that fabric into another project. I had an opportunity to learn a lot of techniques on the Babylock Sashiko. I recently purchased a few 'On-Line classes' that were 6-8 hours in length for $40.- $60. each. Some are very good learning experiences and some are quite disappointing. I learned a great deal more from my own hands-on experience for about $20. worth of fabric and 7 hours of work. I'm thinking of making this fabric into one of my Design and Sew patterns from Lois Ericson. Most of her designs are 'wearable art'.
Every day is a new learning experience when you sew!
The stitching is incredible! Too bad it's too bulky- maybe turn it into a jacket? Which classes did you get?
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